TCHAJ-WAN den 1 & 2 Tayouan, Kaohsiung, Lotus Lake


Je 5.října 2016, chvilku před devátou večer a na Taiwanském mezinárodním letišti Tayouan přistává Airbus A330 společnosti China Airlines. Po devíti hodinovém nočním letu konečně rozlepujeme oči a protahujeme bolavá záda.

Jak jsme se vůbec na tomto čínském ostrově ležícím v jihovýchodní Asii ocitli?

Začalo to v březnu, kdy jsme získali víza na Nový Zéland. Koukali jsme po nejlevnějších letenkách a když jsme narazili na webovky Oldy Théra, jehož agentura se na letenky na NZ specializuje, dočetli jsme se skvělou věc. Při takhle dlouhých letech je možné, zastavit se cestou tak nějak kdekoliv. Udělat si několikadenní až třeba několika měsíční zastávku na cestě do cílové destinace. Okamžitě jsme začali přemýšlet, přes jakou exotiku bychom to vzali. Po té, co jsme s panem Thérem prohodili pár mailů, a on nám nabídl letenky s devíti denním stopoverem na Taiwanu za úžasnou cenu, hnedka jsme po nich skočili.

 Jednosměrná letenka do Aucklandu z Prahy přes Řím a Taipei za 14900,-/os.

Teď už k prvním dnům na Taiwanu. Před odletem jsme si zařídili jediné dvě věci. Jednou z nich byla rezervace ubytování na první noc po příletu. Na Airbnb.com jsme našli sympatickou tchajwanku Rachel, která nabízela kromě hezkého a levného ubytování i odvoz z letiště za pár kaček. Byli jsme domluveni, že až si vyzvedneme zavazadla, písneme jí sms a ona do pár minut přijede.

Jen co se dostáváme ven z příletové haly, zasteskne se nám po klimatizovaném letadle. Teploměr po desáté večer stále ukazuje 28°C a my převlékáme propocená trička dřív, než se nasoukáme Rachel do auta. Cestou nám vypráví o krásách Tchajwanu, o počasí a o jídle, které bysme určitě měli ochutnat. Proto ještě ten večera vyrážíme do ulic na něco malého na zub. (O jídle pak bude samostatný článek, protože to vážně stálo za to!)

Brzy ráno už na nás čeká Taxi, které nás odváží na stanici rychlostních vlaků Tayouan HSR station.

Vlak jsme měli zamluvený taky z domova. Často se prý stává, že jsou zabookované hodně dopředu. Tayouan → Kaohsiung $1060/os.

Jedním z nejrychlejších vlaků přejíždíme ze severu na jih ostrova s několika zastávkami za nějakých 90 minut.

DSC_0035 DSC_0042

Město Kaohsiung je největší taiwanský přístav a druhé největší město ostrova. Protože nejsme zrovna milovníci rušného městského života, přeplněných ulic a raději brouzdáme přírodou, zvolili jsme si zde proto jediný cíl. Lotusové jezero. Leží na severu města, jen kousek od vlakové zastávky. Je známé díky dvacítce chrámů roztroušených kolem břehů a v okolních ulicích.

Na jezero vybíhají pagody tygra a draka, postavené v 60.tých letech jako rozšíření naproti stojícímu chrámu Ciji. Vchází se do draka a vychází se tygrem. To prý pro štěstí.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR3324.

GOPR3337

O kousek dál stojí jarní a podzimní pavilon, zasvěcený bohu války Guandimu, který je zde ztvárněn spolu s bohyní Kuan-Jin, jedoucí na drakovi.

DCIM100GOPROG0053315.

DSC_0106 kopie
DSC_0116

DSC_0101
Poslední ozdobou jezera je 24metrů vysoká socha Xuan-tian Shang-di, největšího vládce temného nebe a strážce severu.

DSC_0062

Chrámy jsou provoněné vonnými tyčinkami. Zdobí je malované stropy s motivy příběhů z literatury a historie, dřevořezby, kamenné sochy a keramika. Mezi běžné zobrazované motivy patří lidské postavy, zvířata, krajiny, rostliny a květy. Tuto keramika najdete na okrajích střech, nade dveřmi či okny a na střechách.

 

DSC_02022

Od jezera se vracíme zpět na nádraží, kde jsme už dřív pokukovali po nepřeberném množství místních delikates. Mezitím, co čekáme na jídlo, hledáme v průvodci, kde je nejlepší vyměnit peníze, protože jsme zatím nikde nepotkali jedinou směnárnu. Jsme přeci jen zvyklí, že jsou u nás na každém kroku. Když se dozvídáme, že jediná šance je velká taiwanská banka, která je od nás pořádný kus cesty a zavírá za půl hoďky, rychle dojídáme jídlo, chytáme prvního taxíka a doufáme, že to  ještě před zavíračkou stihneme. Samozřejmě nestihli. Náš taxikách ještě chvilku něco domlouvá se strážníkem, který nám přichází říct, že jediná a poslední šance je pro nás směnárna na místním letišti.Dáváme tedy taxikáři naší poslední hotovost, běžíme na metro a frčímě na letiště.

Konečně měníme peníze a v místní kavárně vymýšlíme, kam dál.. Narychlo zamlouváme podezřele levný hostel na jihu ostrova v národním parku Kenting, vzálený cca ještě dvě hodiny autem. Venku je tma a turistické autobusy už dávno nejezdí. Ale o tom už v dalším článku.


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